Davidsw 4 Posted November 18, 2017 The car has been fully restored and I thought tested . Oh well ok fuse 2 , 30 amp blew on way to mot . It made it through but I noticed the brake light stopped working on the way back . I replaced fuse 2 , 3 times . I noticed the wires going to the brake pedal had got hot . But the cause unknown . Well after taking dash out pulling fuse box apart and back lights I noticed the the earth to the rear light cluster had also got hot but it looked like it had done this over a period of time . This is the earth wire in the earth block on the inside behind the light . I pulled this earth off and the brake lights started working after I replaced the wires to the pedal . I’ve had the car on test and no failure but I can see with a voltmeter that the earth wire has 12v on it when I press the brake pedal . If I leave the earth wire disconnected all is good . I would like to find the cause of this . Any ideas thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jackherer 543 Posted November 18, 2017 I'm not sure what your fault is but I think fuse 2 should be a 25A not a 30A which might explain why your wiring has melted before the fuse has blown. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Davidsw 4 Posted November 18, 2017 Ok thanks for that I’ll down grade . Funney thing is I ordered a replacement look from Peugeot spares off eBay . That loom is also burnt on the same earth . Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
toolie72 67 1 Cars Posted November 19, 2017 Not sure I’m following what you mean But 12 volt going to earth is just the circuit closing ie when the switch has made contact which in a dc circuit is correct ,+ goes to light goes to -,if it didn’t go to negative then light wouldn’t come on or is that not what you’re saying? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Andy 105 1 Cars Posted November 20, 2017 Hmm. 12v actually at the earth wire is a problem. The 12v should be dropped across the device being activated, (buib etc) . The earth is there to complete the path back to the battery and should be at virtually zero potential . If not, then the live feed must be bypassing the device being operated, hence the high current in the wire and consequent fuse blowing/ wire overheating ( although the latter should not happen if the former is the correct rating ) as Jackherer said Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Fenton 1,524 Posted November 20, 2017 Sounds to me like you have plugged the flying 12v that exists at the rear of the car into the earth block. A photo would help but the wire is not used on most 205's Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Andy 105 1 Cars Posted November 20, 2017 Agreed. You have grounded at 12v supply. Hence the melting ! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Davidsw 4 Posted November 20, 2017 (edited) Hi yes I believe I grounded the feed for the towing hook during the restoration . I’ve since replaced the fuse box just because I wanted to get to know how it all hangs . I’ve tested the car now for half an hour with the brake lights on and everything else . Every thing works now ive rapped the damage in heat shrink and replace the two wires going to the brake pedal . Thanks People ive actually got a spare wiring loom from the engine back it’s very good for reverse engineering . Edited November 20, 2017 by Davidsw 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
johnyma22 3 Posted September 11, 2020 Thanks for this thread, it pointed me in the right direction to solve my problem :) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites