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dobboy

Rebuild

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dobboy

I don't suppose anyone who's rebuilt a 1.9 engine recently could give me an idea of what sort of money is involved please? (parts only)

 

And what parts are normally required and best to renew?

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welshpug

its hard to put a specific figure without knowing the condition of the original base unit, whether its only a bit leaky and needs a refresh, or its like fatty's leg and you need to throw it away and start with another one!

 

factor in the variance of labour rates for any machine work needed across the country and its even more difficult.

 

off the top of my head I would say factor in roughly £250-300 of parts as long as the core parts like head - block - crank - liners and pistons are good.

 

 

also depends if you have all the tools to mic and assemble the engine yourself or need to pay someone to build it for you.

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dobboy

Thanks WP.

 

A guy i know will help/guide me/rebuilt it who's rebuilt loads of them, and i'm sure he wouldn't be hard to pay.

 

Was just wondering what's likely to be required and how much the parts would be. (the engine seemed healthy when it came out)

 

I was thinking a head skim and rebuild kit and also timing kit..... crank seals?

 

Is there anything else that may be required?

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dcc

Valve stem seals, piston rings, but mostly wear to liner seats and block corrosion behind liner closest to flywheel

 

My 1.9 refresh (bearings, seals, belt kit, water pump, hg, bolts) came to £180 iirc. That included having crank and conrods checked

 

I replaced the stem seals (which also cost a set of bolts and hg) for circa £80

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Telf

SO far my Rebuild thread has cost me:

 

£60 and £40 for 2 different engines as the first block was knackered as detailed in the thread.

 

£300 odd to vapour clean it

 

head work - skim, valve stem seals, valve guides, shim and 3 angle cut -cost TBC....

 

I then need new liners - about £200 I think miles said

 

New gasket set - not sure £100!?!

 

Shells and piston rings ermm maybe £80?

 

Think that's everything .. maybe

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dobboy

Thanks chaps 👍

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hoodygoodwood

Don't mess around with separate gaskets just buy a FULL gasket set ( £80 - 100 ) from a decent brand ( not Moprod ), it will include everything you need inc valve stem seals .Make sure you use the correct inlet manifold gasket as the kit will come with 2 and the wrong one will give you all sorts of running issues . The only thing I might buy separately would be the liner O rings as they are so important I would rather use OE Peugeot ones just to be sure . A set of new head bolts ( £25 ) can be picked up at the same time , look out for discounts at Euro carparts !

Your liners are almost certain to be worn so just buy 4 new ones ( £150 ) , its not worth getting yours honed as the cost can be put toward new ones . Take your crank to a reputable engine machinists , they will measure your big end and main journals and regrind them if they are worn out of tolerance or polish them if they are within . They will advise you which size shells to buy ( £35 + £35 )

Thrust washers are often still within tolerance - check with feelers before removing crank .

Piston rings are £80 - £110 , don't buy from Peugeot as the price is extortionate - £170 !

Water pump ( £20 ) cam belt and tensioner ( £35 ) , I wouldn't use a tensioner unless it has INA stamped in the middle of the roller .Lots of effort removing the carbon build up from the head and valves but not much in the way of costs unless it needs a skim ( I paid £38 )you might be able to lap in the valves without any machining , I use a wooden suction cup lapping tool adapted to fit a cordless drill . When reshimming your valve clearances you will be able to shuffle your existing shims around but you will probably need to buy new unless you have a box of spares . Last time I bought some they came 2 in a pack at about £5 each iirc .

If your crank pulley is cracked and rusty you can buy an ali replacement for around £60 which is much lighter and looks great , you can fit a 1.6 flywheel to a 1.9 if you want to save a kilo .

You might want to replace the exhaust manifold studs as they break , and nuts as the 10mm ones round off so the 13mm copper looking ones are much better .While the engine is apart put a straight edge on your exhaust manifold and you will probably find it is warped , I spend 2 hours filing it flat - this should stop it cracking in the future .

Before doing any of this get your engine stripped , knock out the liners and check for corrosion of the block .

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petert

 

 

Lots of effort removing the carbon build up from the head and valves but not much in the way of costs unless it needs a skim ( I paid £38 )you might be able to lap in the valves without any machining , I use a wooden suction cup lapping tool adapted to fit a cordless drill .

 

That's rough. It doesn't take into account if the guides are worn. Good valve seat cutting and sealing starts with concentric guides. If they're worn, the valves will never seal. Best to leave the head to a pro.

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dobboy

Don't mess around with separate gaskets just buy a FULL gasket set ( £80 - 100 ) from a decent brand ( not Moprod ), it will include everything you need inc valve stem seals .Make sure you use the correct inlet manifold gasket as the kit will come with 2 and the wrong one will give you all sorts of running issues . The only thing I might buy separately would be the liner O rings as they are so important I would rather use OE Peugeot ones just to be sure . A set of new head bolts ( £25 ) can be picked up at the same time , look out for discounts at Euro carparts !

Your liners are almost certain to be worn so just buy 4 new ones ( £150 ) , its not worth getting yours honed as the cost can be put toward new ones . Take your crank to a reputable engine machinists , they will measure your big end and main journals and regrind them if they are worn out of tolerance or polish them if they are within . They will advise you which size shells to buy ( £35 + £35 )

Thrust washers are often still within tolerance - check with feelers before removing crank .

Piston rings are £80 - £110 , don't buy from Peugeot as the price is extortionate - £170 !

Water pump ( £20 ) cam belt and tensioner ( £35 ) , I wouldn't use a tensioner unless it has INA stamped in the middle of the roller .Lots of effort removing the carbon build up from the head and valves but not much in the way of costs unless it needs a skim ( I paid £38 )you might be able to lap in the valves without any machining , I use a wooden suction cup lapping tool adapted to fit a cordless drill . When reshimming your valve clearances you will be able to shuffle your existing shims around but you will probably need to buy new unless you have a box of spares . Last time I bought some they came 2 in a pack at about £5 each iirc .

If your crank pulley is cracked and rusty you can buy an ali replacement for around £60 which is much lighter and looks great , you can fit a 1.6 flywheel to a 1.9 if you want to save a kilo .

You might want to replace the exhaust manifold studs as they break , and nuts as the 10mm ones round off so the 13mm copper looking ones are much better .While the engine is apart put a straight edge on your exhaust manifold and you will probably find it is warped , I spend 2 hours filing it flat - this should stop it cracking in the future .

Before doing any of this get your engine stripped , knock out the liners and check for corrosion of the block .

 

Thanks for the concise response hoody.

 

The guy who'll do it/help me should know what to look for. (He actually used to rally brand new 205's back in the day and kept with them for years, and has built a couple over the last 5 years or so. Now he can't really be bothered with this type of work but i'm sure he'll help me out no problem.

 

The last time i got engine work done was on my GTI6 head, i gave it to a local engine/machine place, and they did a full head rebuild and skim, so that might be an option to take some of the work out of it.

 

Did i read that you can turn the liners 180 degrees in some manual if they show signs of wear?

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Telf

As miles says:

 

"Before doing any of this get your engine stripped , knock out the liners and check for corrosion of the block ."

 

this is really important

 

post-21474-0-22399500-1437498416_thumb.j

 

this is a pic from my thread 8V rebuild...

Edited by Telf
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Leslie green

Check the rear of the blocks for cracks too , mine is cracked there below a stud and they can crack when doing up the head bolts again apparently .

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j_turnell

Check the rear of the blocks for cracks too , mine is cracked there below a stud and they can crack when doing up the head bolts again apparently .

 

Quite common when the additional spacer is missed off above the water pump.

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