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Telf

[Car_Restoration] 205 Gr Project Car

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Telf

Well I've managed to break the front bumper where the main attachment point is - does anybody local in the Suffolk area have a bumper for sale?

 

Cheers

 

Paul

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Telf

I had a go at a GRP repair today for the bumper - it seems solid enough - However I've never smelt anything like it in my life- had to revert to a full Respirator facemask!!

 

Truly horrible- Halfords advice use a dust mask - lol the fumes coming off it where something else!

post-21474-0-42788100-1440865073_thumb.jpg

Edited by Telf

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Telf

Spent today refitting the bumper and headlights and refitting the rest of the interior- not too bad for a minimum spend project- MOT in a few weeks once I fix a drive shaft boot.

 

Having no joy finding a doo card though!

 

Also found a Peugeot Lion- repainted and lacquered.

post-21474-0-80540100-1440954642_thumb.jpg

post-21474-0-32271600-1440954654_thumb.jpg

Edited by Telf

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Telf

Had some luck with this recently - found a 309 being used by the fire service for cutting/rescue practice. Managed to get all kinds of bits off it like door seals, window mechanisms, door card trims, heater fan, capacitor, gear knob, steering wheel and a clarion stereo. The best bit was it was all free.

 

Now to MOT it once I manage to change a torn drive shaft boot!

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GLPoomobile

That inner wing repair - you said he put a plate over the remains of the rotten panel? I'd be wary of how long that would last. If there's any rot left under then it's just going to spread again. Pretty sure one of mine had a repair like this and the plate was all rotten and peeling back.

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Telf

he did cut the old out -so I think it will be ok

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Telf

So MOT today.

 

It failed on item:Gas suspension has no movement offside rear.

 

Its pouring down here and I've never worked on the rear suspension - I take it this is basically a seized beam- can they be freed off or is it a new beam?

 

Thanks

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Tom Fenton

I guess you could try and free if off but I wouldn't hold out too much hope.

 

As it is a project car for you there's no better place to learn by having a go so why not have a try at dismantling it.

 

My advice if you remove it would be to leave all the brake lines if in good order attached. With the drums removed undo the relevant clips and brackets then 4 bolts and the brake backplate complete with all its shoes can be removed complete with the brake pipes still attached. Saves the very likely hassle of seized fittings and needing to make new lines.

With it off there are a few guides on here with how to get it apart. However I will warm you that if one side is seized it will likely take a sledgehammer to get it to bits, and it's very likely the main cross tube won't be useable afterwards.

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Telf

having taken the wheels off and put it on axel stands the nearside moves freely and the off side is in a fully up position(well not quite hitting the bump stop!)

 

I'm going to try and wedge some wood into the arch and use a scissor jack to see if it moves. Looks terminal to me though. There is a 309 being scrapped that i'm taking parts off but I believe the rear beams are wider?

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Tom Fenton

From your description and my experience I would say don't waste your time!!!

But nothing to be harmed from trying just be careful not to damage what you are jacking off.

309 beam I don't think will go on a base model as you say it's wider. However it's worth getting as it may give you a source of bits that you can build a 205 beam from. Trailing arms and shafts in particular. Then the main cross tube if in good order is very saleable.

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Anthony

Just be wary of paying too much for it unless you can accurately assess condition (ie strip it down) or there's proof of a recent rebuild. Just about every 309 beam I've taken apart in the last few years has either been knackered or well on its way to being so, which would limit its usefulness to you given that the tube is wider than a 205 one.

 

As Tom says, if it's seized then the tube will almost certainly be scrap and you'll need to be careful not to damage the arm with the amount of force needed to remove it from the tube. If you can get it apart, then the parts needed to rebuild it aren't too expensive these days thanks to decent pattern part availability, just finding a serviceable beam tube can be an issue (although I believe that there's a couple of companies on eBay now supplying them ready fitted with bearings/seals - no personal experience though)

 

Other option is to take your chances with another used 205 beam - again, these are often dying if they're original, but find something from as late and low-mileage 205 as possible that's showing no symptoms of failure (camber, squeaking, play, seizing/resistance etc) and you might get something that'll last for a little while. I'd always recommend rebuilding it before it's showing signs of dying though, as once they start to fail you'll often find that the tube is unfit for reuse.

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Telf

well I need the car to earn a partial living and be off my drive- so Im going to try and find a used beam, fit and then look and building another slow time- along with my 8V rebuild its turning into a 205 money black hole inmy bank account!

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Telf

well the beam is truly stuck.

 

as I think its scrap and might be getting another ive drilled a hole in it an filled the beam with a oil/diesel mix as Ive been told a few times this can free off a seized beam.

 

Personally I don't thnik it will work but might as well give it a go!
​

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Telf

Well its been soaking for a few days I've gone at it like a mad thing and it hasn't moved a millimetre

 

Time for a replacement beam!

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Telf

New Beam sourced from the GTX that SkyQuake is breaking.

Started this job thinking it was going to be a nightmare but other than taking most of Saturday it wasn't too bad.

I was relieved when I realised you can disconnect the brake hubs without having to break into the system - I didn't fancy bleeding the break lines/snapping the bleed nipples!

 

For anyone who hasn't done this job you can see the flexible lines do give enough clearance to manoeuvre the brake hubs clear

post-21474-0-13717100-1443340028_thumb.jpg

Edited by Telf

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Telf

And as its really my sons project here are a few shots of him actually doing the work!

 

Next on the list I to change the heater motor, and replace the bumpers and valances with a set off a GTX

 

So tomorrow its off for its MOT retest with nice bouncy suspension

post-21474-0-06531700-1443340153_thumb.jpg

post-21474-0-42381500-1443340171_thumb.jpg

Edited by Telf

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allye

Nice progress, I started working on cars on a 1.4 205 when I was 18, great car to start out on.

 

Now find a XS engine and box and sling it in!

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Tom Fenton

My advice if you remove it would be to leave all the brake lines if in good order attached. With the drums removed undo the relevant clips and brackets then 4 bolts and the brake backplate complete with all its shoes can be removed complete with the brake pipes still attached. Saves the very likely hassle of seized fittings and needing to make new lines.

Cough.

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Telf

Tom,

 

 

Think I may have read your post- logged it in memory then carried it out in some weird subconscious way.... So thanks cos it saved some real hassle!

 

Now I'm going to strip the other beam for parts.

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Telf

Allye,

 

I got the engine from the GTX that SkyQuake was breaking for a whole £10. Isn't it the same engine I've already got fitted? Both are 1.4s?

 

As far as I can tell the 1.4 in the GR ands the GTX was the same- but with no experience of the TU series I don't know that for a fact

Edited by Telf

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allye

99% sure they are iron block 75bhp versions.

 

The lighter TU3s aluminium 85bhp is the kiddy to go for, no rev limiter and just loves 8000rpm all day long.

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Telf

MOT passed!

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Telf

After 2 weeks of being on the road and having a few running issues Ive discovered that the vacuum advance isn't working which I think will account for the rough running under load (read heavy acceleration).

 

So next job is source a new dizzy, fix the heater which doesn't work and fit a better set of bumpers.

 

Hoping to get this done in the next few weeks.

 

I'm actually surprised by how well it runs for a 1.4 - its quite spritely.

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allye

The most fun I've had in a 205 is a 1.4, screeming it's tits off, so eager!

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Telf

On Sunday I took no.1 junior mechanic for his first driving lesson in the car he has worked (fairly) hard getting road worthy.

 

2 hours later - the art of pulling away without stalling mastered- surely plain sailing from there?

 

In other news a set of front and rear GTI bumpers/valances are waiting to be fitted to replace the tatty tired ones currently on.

 

Ive been looking on fleabay for a suitable mounting kit as the old rubber bungs are all shot- I'm not sure looking at the kits that all the required parts are there - does anybody have any practical experience with these kits?

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