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Telf

Hi all

 

So I've finally managed to get hold of a D6B 1.9 8V from Blandy - thanks very much Blandy!

 

I'm intending to completely strip it and rebuild. Today I took the first steps by taking off all the bolt on bits but before I strip the head off I have a question which to some may seem obvious!

 

As I'm intending to completely strip the whole thing I take it there's no point in locking the engine into Top Dead Centre? I mean I'm going to remove the cylinders and liners anyway so it doesn't matter - am I right or wrong in this assumption?

 

I'm going to post pictures as I go so maybe someone else will find my experience useful at some point

 

Fingers crossed this all goes well!

 

Although the engine was a steal at £60!

 

Cheers

 

Paul

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hoodygoodwood

Take the plugs out , turn it over so the pistons are half way down the bore then you can remove the cambelt without any worry of piston to valve contact .

Start spraying the head bolts with penetrating oil ( heads and threads ) well before you are ready to undo them , it might not help but if it stops a bolt breaking as one of mine did its worth doing .

Once its apart before wasting any time on the block check the pile of scale/silt you will find at the rear of the liner closest to the flywheel , scrape it away and see how badly corroded away the block is here . The casting is surprisingly thin and can go porous if the rust is bad .

I use a centre punch and hammer to mark big end and main caps so there are no mixups at reassembly time .

How did you get on with your brake fluid problem ?

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opticaltrigger

Hi Paul,

Personaly I have a habit of timing engines up before a tear down for the same reasons as hoodygoodwood.Technicaly speaking If your doing a complete rebuild it would'nt really matter because everything is geting replaced but it's just nasty and not good practice.I dont see any need to lock it there though.

 

All the best

O.T.

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Telf

hi guys thanks for the replies,

 

So I've started bathing the bolts in oil- gong to leave them to soak for a few days.

 

The only work I've done is head stuff so I've always locked the head and bottom before removal. In this case I've cranked it round and stuck a drift in. When you say half a bore down how can I see if the pistons are there or not?

 

I've never taken the cylinders out etc so this is going to be a journey of exploration with the trusty workshop manual!

 

Top fun I'm just hoping the casting is OK other wise its back to Ebay.

 

Initially hopeful , plenty of oil and Blue coolant so at least it wasn't run on brown water for some of its life!

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hoodygoodwood

I have a long piece of wooden rod that I put down the plug hole , when it goes down the same amount on all 4 bores the pistons are mid stroke .

If the head has not been off since new the head gasket will be In a right state , lots of it will be rotten and crumbly . As you undo and remove each headbolt check to see if water pours out through the bottom of the bolt hole , this shows the H/G is on its last legs . If its been like it a while the thread in the ali block can be weakened and when you torque it down it will start to strip .

When you come to remove the liners all that in the manual about being careful not to turn the crank because the liners may lift is unlikely to apply - you will have to beat them out with a hammer and a copper drift .

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Miles

Get hold of a old Haynes manual for the 205, 309 & 405 then you'll find it's all covered with pic's too

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Telf

Hoody,

 

The brakes are all fixed now thanks- no real problem, I jacked the engine when I was changing the mounts a while ago - I think I must have trapped a line.

 

Anyway now you say it about the pistons its obvious really - Thanks.

 

I will bear in mind about the liners- certainly they have never moved on any other engine I've done head work on- even in 1994/5 when I had my first with a young engine in it wasn't an issue and never has been since.

 

This is probably going to take me months to complete!

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hoodygoodwood

Best bit of any project , like a large and expensive Meccano set .

I am building 2 cars and 2 engines at the moment , a XU9JA block had to be scrapped because the corrosion spread down to the liner seat and 'O' ring 45 degree angle . Not to much of a problem while engines can be picked up so cheaply for spares .

If you don't have one get the Draper flywheel locking tool , they are about £10 and bolt to one of the threads near the starter , great for undoing the crank pulley or flywheel bolts .

Are you rebuilding it to std spec ?

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Telf

Yep I'm intending to build it standard, just like the rest of the car

 

I will post updates as I go

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Telf

Hi all,

 

Ive been stripping the engine all day and have finally hit a problem-I cant work out how to remove the number 1 bearing cap

 

It looks like it needs tapping out but the Haynes manual is a little vague

 

any help would be great

 

Paul

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Tom Fenton

It will just be a little tight down to the seals down the sides of it. Tap it gently side to side ideally with a hide soft faced mallet to get it moving until you can remove it. Don't be tempted to lever in the joint you may damage the mating faces.

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S@m

Number one is held by two bolts just like the others, however, it is often stuck fast with sealant around the hockey sticks down either side. A little wiggling and maybe a tap with a rubber mallet should free it up.

 

Its number three that always gets me with the side bolts going through the block,

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Telf

ive tapped it and it moves but im not sure if its supposed to pull up or tap out?

 

really confused!

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Telf

Im tapping it from inside the block and it is moving but in a outwards direction- hammer and copper drift style

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Telf

Also Ive got all the pistons out but 2 are stuck in the liners - im not sure how I'm going to free them off- better news is the mating area of the two liners that are out look good

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Tom Fenton

It's on a pair of dowels so needs really to pull upwards. However it will rock back and forth.

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Telf

right ok I sorted it - the seal was sticking to it I thought it was all one assembly for some reason!

 

so Ive got all the liners out and I think the block may be scrap- I'm going to post a couple of pics for advice

 

not happy!

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Telf

No.1 Cylinder seat - corrosion but is it terminal?

post-21474-0-22399500-1437498416_thumb.jpg

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Telf

Another view this was the last liner to come out- loads of debris - removed and started hitting with a hammer and copper drift- what does everybody think? The intent is to produce a real quality rebuild so I'm thinking maybe I should look for another block. I've got no rebuild experience so any advice would be great

post-21474-0-81313000-1437498563_thumb.jpg

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Anthony

I'd be looking for another block - the liner seat is certainly corroded (although not as bad as some) but that corner looks pretty bad and I certainly wouldn't use that as a basis for a rebuilt engine given the time and money you'll have invested in it.

 

Unfortunately, these engines are of the age where years of neglected coolant changes are really starting to show and it's often difficult to assess to any reliable degree how good/bad they are until you've stripped them down.

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welshpug

yep, scrap unfortunately, I've had a better looking one than that crack when the head bolts were tightened.

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jackherer

Someone suggested XU7 blocks the other day as a possible replacement, has anyone actually used one to rebuild an XU9?

 

There must be a reasonable supply of them left in usable condition, they're newer and should have been run on longlife coolant from new.

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Telf

Oh well,

 

At least I learnt how to strip an engine - so I presume its worth keeping all the pistons,cranks etc?

 

Does anybody have a block for sale???

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Telf

I take it if I can get hold of a 1.6 engine and I could just fit the spacer they are just the same block aren't they?

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welshpug

yes.

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