[Car_Restoration] Scruffy But Original 1.9 Gti - Restoration

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

PB, just been out in mines.

 

Start planning a gearbox change, honestly it's transformed it.

 

Regarding your splutter, mines is fine, so cant be to do with TRV.

 

I'd look at ICV if it was me, think i may have one you can try but dunno if it's good.

 

Regarding mounts, i have a vibratech lower mount, and all others are new OE, and the car just feels like driving a new car, but i know i still get a fair degree of engine movement/rock hence why i told you to take a bit more off your cam covers when i saw yours originally. My engine movement must be a fair bit as i popped a gear linkage last time on track, but have just changed them to the ones with pins which hopefully cures it. At first i was also loosing back box exhaust rubbers until i added a cable tie lol to stop the rubber moving too much, i think this was to do with engine movement too.

 

Overall mines it very comfy to drive in, and i was gonna add GrpN engine mounts at some stage but you're putting me off lol i might just change the two little buffers instead as i can visably see they get punished.

[Plumbob 66 1 Cars]

Oh god, gearbox change! i've only done 100 miles so far!!

 

I forgot to mention that i've already tried swapping the ICV for a known good one and it made no difference, i've got a spare TPS and i'm thinking about whipping the upper cam cover off and seeing if the timing is alright.

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

 

Yeah PB, initial thoughts are it's a dramatic change for the better, however the TTV is new to me too, so that will make a difference as well.

 

Another thing which you could try, but i'm not 100% sure it does anything but kind of think it does, is, turn ignition on for 15secs, switch off, start up, and take it a good run at various loads/revs/speeds etc

 

I done this with my first engine, and it "seemed" to run rougher for a few mins, then ran nice.

 

I read somewhere it resets the ecu, and starts learning and recalibrating itself.

[Plumbob 66 1 Cars]

Sorry for the naff photo but can somebody confirm if the black hose fitting coming from the throttle body on my car should be connected to anything? From what I can gather its to do with the carbon canister which has been removed... The hole has been badly blocked with a bit of plastic (which looks like it's got a small hole in it) and it's also split the fitting itself. I imagine its leaking so perhaps I've found the cause of my hunting idle problem. What do people usually do? I'm thinking about a short bit of fuel hose with something fixed in the end? Also the breather pipe came off in my hand, jubilee clip was loose (perhaps broken).

 

Edited February 6, 2015 by Plumbob

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

Yeah looks like carbon canister, about 8mm OD and points to OS?

 

You could maybe fit a self tapper in it?

 

I done mine with a kind of putty we use at work.

 

If it isn't sealed i think it makes it idle slightly higher.

[Plumbob 66 1 Cars]

Ok another question.. I've got the info from the 306 site for testing the MAP. It says the range of voltage between pins 1 & 2 should be between 0.2v and 5v. When my car is idling it's approx 1.8 volts. Is this correct? If I blip the throttle it fluctuates but not really anywhere near 5v.. Maybe 3.5v. Anyone on here had much success with testing these? The video on YouTube from from pug addicts doesn't explain if the MAP sensor in the video is a good one or bad.

Edited February 6, 2015 by Plumbob

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

With the engine mounts you can run all std, just rotate the lower one by 90 degree's so the rubber is in line with the engine fork, The top mounts do very little so unless racing I cannot see the point of upgrading as the engine just hangs off these and again if you have the lower mount disconnect the engine rocks back and forth as it would on std mounts.

[Plumbob 66 1 Cars]

Thankyou. The lower bush on mine is the solid rubber one you fitted for me when you did the exhaust manifold. Don't you usually use the vibratechnics ones on your conversions?

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

PB, what makes you think the engine mounts are too stiff for your liking?

 

Could it just be the suspension is a tad too stiff for you?

[Mattr5uk 20 5 Cars]

Have a spin in mine tomorrow see what you think, mines on bbm mounts and standard fork mount.

[Plumbob 66 1 Cars]

PB, what makes you think the engine mounts are too stiff for your liking?

 

Could it just be the suspension is a tad too stiff for you?

Suspension is fine, it's the vibration at idle I don't like. If i can get away with standard engjne mounts at the top and just keep my "uprated" lower fork bushes I'll be a happy man. If it's only an advantage on a track then I'll quite happily do without the harshness.. It's not going to see a track very often anyway.

[S@m 156]

The mounts can be very harsh at first but they do settle down a little after a few thousand miles - you will always have some vibration at idle with the uprated mounts though.

 

I had a full set of bbm rubbers and a solid nylon bush in the fork on my mi16 - that makes for a harsh time in terms of vibration but was fine once you start moving. It made such an improvement to the gearchange and on/off throttle engine shunt that it was worth the vibration to me - i even enjoyed the ridiculously shaky view in the rear view mirror when stationary but i can understand how its not for everyone.

[Plumbob 66 1 Cars]

That's exactly the setup I've got now. I'll take a ride in matts one tomorrow and see what I think. Maybe you're right and I should let them settle a bit..

[Slo 283 1 Cars]

Ive got solid bottom mount too it was a shock after I fitted it, sounded and felt like the engine was bolted to the subframe. No more gearstick wobble though and you get used to it.

[Plumbob 66 1 Cars]

Think we may have got to the bottom of the spluttering. Seems I have an iffy coil pack.. Swapped one from mattr5uk's car and all was good! Shame he wouldn't let me keep it.... Made some excuse about needing it in his so he could get home from work!? Shame..... :-)

 

Also took his one for a drive and he has a combo of standard and group N mounts and his was like a normal car in terms of NVH. I'll persevere a bit longer with mine and give them a chance to soften up a bit...

 

Fitted all the boot trims, rear speakers and parcel shelf so it's looking much more like a real car now too.

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

Good news on the coil pack, if you're looking for one i have a few spares. Out of interest did the dodgy one test ok?

[Plumbob 66 1 Cars]

Dodgy one tested ok when I checked the resistance the other week. It is something that built up as the car warmed up so I guess it's breaking down as it gets warm.

 

Also had the tracking done today. Had quite a bit of toe out (I set it with a tape measure) so the car is no longer a "ditch finder" like it was...

 

Getting a new coil pack tomorrow/saturday.

Edited February 12, 2015 by Plumbob

[Mattr5uk 20 5 Cars]

Only just had a proper read of your thread and seeing the car in the flesh I've got to say envious isn't the word!

It's very nice and that's as much of a compliment I can give I'm afraid

 

I now refuse to give my car eye contact in disgust at it!

 

What pipe work did you use for your pas set up?

[Plumbob 66 1 Cars]

Thankyou!

 

Yours was alright, just needs a little tidy but it'll be fine... Drives smoother than mine I can tell you!

 

The high pressure side is a normal 306 GTI hose which I got from a scrappy and the low pressure is just made up from some rubber hose from the rack back to the header tank. There's no cooling loop as most people seem to think it's not needed.

 

Once mine is running on all four pots you can see for yourself what it's like. It's heavy still but just not excessive when parking like they are with no PAS.

[Plumbob 66 1 Cars]

I can confirm that it was the definitely the coil pack, replaced the iffy one and all is well now.

 

So just to recap... I've changed the CTS as I tested it and it was giving wrong readings, changed the lambda as it was split down the side and the wiring was breaking up, and now changed one of the coil packs and the car is now running perfectly. I suppose seeing as one has gone I can expect to have to buy three more in the not too distant future...

 

Even with the richw flywheel it's still easy to drive around the town, the engine now pulls from low revs no problem. I guess it was running on 3.5 cylinders when it was cold and maybe 3.1 when it was hot, certainly was a pig at town speeds.

 

Big thanks to mattr5uk for his time and effort finding the fault. Top bloke.

[welshpug 1,621]

I've never had to change one on my engine, but it is still under 80k, though 17 years old!

[Mattr5uk 20 5 Cars]

It was nice to be of help and glad it turned out to be something simple!

Especially after all the time and effort you've put in.

[jackherer 543]

I suppose seeing as one has gone I can expect to have to buy three more in the not too distant future...

My Xsara VTS needed one new coil but the other three were fine for at least 35k miles after that.

[Plumbob 66 1 Cars]

Cheers lads.

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

Good of you helping PB out Matt.

 

The two of you should bring your cars up to the yorkshire drive, me and Malc are gonna nip down for a spin and a bit of scran. Although i imagine it's a fair hike for you.