[car_restoration] 405 T16 Restoration

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

That leather sofa has seated some seriously nice parts during its life!

 

This is actually a different sofa, so this one haven't had that much nice ones

 

Do any of you know if the small hoses connected to the suspension cylinders are needed? The ones connected to the rubber grommet of the cylinders?

If no... I hope to just drop them.

[imaS 0]

The small hoses act as a breather and return possible LHM leakage back to reservoir. So they are not critical parts, suspension will work without those hoses.

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

The small hoses act as a breather and return possible LHM leakage back to reservoir. So they are not critical parts, suspension will work without those hoses.

 

Ok, suppose I will just block off those small take-offs in the grommet then.

 

If it is leaking it should be changed anyway then

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

Just bought some rear brake discs the other day, and trial fitted the rear caliper.

 

Will need to get the rear brake hoses, and start making some brake lines for it soon.

 

 

Also painted some red Jamex lowering springs black, and sandblasted and painted two front dampers today.

 

Hopefully it will pass MOT with this front setup, without any need of TüV papers due to "lowering springs"

 

GAZ's will go on later.

 

 

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

Today I started to try to get some life to the rear suspension.

 

After some fiddling and running the pump it actually started to get some resistance in the system

 

But need to get more LHM before I try anymore.

 

 

 

The bad thing is that I just found out that I am missing some parts for the rear suspension electrics. I have found out that I'm missing at least the C508 part, but also the C901. The C901 I suppose is the manual switch, but the C508 is more like a relay-board? Do any of you have a picture of these parts, or some spare that I can buy? Emergency solution will be just to adjust the height manually, but that's not optimal...

 

 

[imaS 0]

C508 part is just normal warning light switch, you can find that part from all ph1 405 dashboards.

 

C901 is a 2-pin connector. No switch connected. When you connect the wires, you can use it for bleeding / depressurising suspension for service purposes.

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

C508 part is just normal warning light switch, you can find that part from all ph1 405 dashboards.

 

C901 is a 2-pin connector. No switch connected. When you connect the wires, you can use it for bleeding / depressurising suspension for service purposes.

 

Am I not looking at the right wiring diagram then?

 

As my rear loom has a connector with 6 pins, which I'm quite sure need to be connected to this C508 part, as there are no other items with 6 wires in the wiring diagram.

 

I also thought that the C901 switch was permanently mounted in the trunk, at least on the T16's I've seen.

 

 

[imaS 0]

The diagram is correct one. The part C508 is just a switch, part 9 at that sparepart catalog. And that one is the permanently mounted one in the trunk.

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

Ok, nice, that makes some more sense, but I can't remember that the ph1 dashboard switches has a 6 pin connector like the one that I have spare in the loom.

It looks more like the connectors for the window switches.

 

Is it some sort of intermediate wiring between the switch and the loom?

 

Can I just use a hazard light, or fog-light switch from a phase1 dashboard then? Just to test the system?

 

Thanks a lot for your input on this subject

[imaS 0]

The hazard light switch has that 6-pin connector and it needs to be used. Additional wiring is not needed. At least in ph1 4wd models.

 

Subject is quite familiar. I once had a bit of struggle with suspension electrics.

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

Ok, now it gets more clear.

 

Just made this picture...

 

I forgot about that light grey connector, blue circle, but of course that is the one that needs to connect to the hazard light switch?

 

The one I wonder about (I believe) is the one i red circle... Which has a few wires in it.

 

The black circle is around the red plug (which is the pump main supply) and the yellow one which is earth for pump and solenoid I believe.

 

And the yellow circle is around the plug for the pressure switch?

 

I'm still quite confused

 

[imaS 0]

The one in blue circle is for hazard switch.

The connector just above blue circle is for service (bleeding etc).

And you are missing one relay (all four ones are identical).

 

Easiest way to figure out where to connect those plugs is to look codes on wiring. They should match when you find right connector pair.

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

The one in blue circle is for hazard switch.

The connector just above blue circle is for service (bleeding etc).

And you are missing one relay (all four ones are identical).

 

Easiest way to figure out where to connect those plugs is to look codes on wiring. They should match when you find right connector pair.

 

I know, but I only have a FWD car wiring. So I know something will be missing... but I hope it will be possible to make it work. Just connect the hazard switch, and the last relay, and hopefully it will work somehow.

[imaS 0]

Ok, that makes it a bit more challenging.

 

So you still need to create wiring at least for these things:

- handbrake switch

- ignition switch

- lhm fluidlevel warning to cluster

- and in 4wd the fuses for pump and rideheight controller are in enginebay.

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

True.

 

Was i the garage today, found a Ph1 hazard light switch in the basement from my good old Mi16 and brought it with me.

 

I think I identified the switched live (+) ignition wire today, and also the handbrake and stop light wires.

 

So now it seem to work... if I move the height sensor lever around the pump will start working after a few seconds.

 

 

This is the wires going to the front of the car ignition +, etc.. the plug I found doesn't seem to match though, as it has this one thick yellow wire, but I'll just use this anyway, as long as it works

 

 

 

Now I just need to figure out how to sucessfully bleed the system, do you have any tips there?

 

The pump is running (I might be low on the LHM as I only poured in 1 litre, so will get more tomorrow), but the car wont raise. I don't think it came too much air from the bleed screw on the brake compensator when I tried to de-air it, is it any special procedure that needs to be done? Also is the 4x4 version of the 405 supposed to be higher than the FWD one? I think the bump stops was kicking in very early, so to get reasonable suspension travel it seem to me that the car need to be quite high... This is the lowest it will go before sitting on the bump stops.

 

 

Edited April 1, 2012 by B1ack_Mi16

[imaS 0]

If you already got LHM coming from the bleed nipple, then it does not need anymore bleeding from underneath of car. Next remove return hose from reservoir, connect pins in C901 connector and press hazard switch. When you get LHM coming, disconnect pins in C901 and press hazard switch. Finally, just press the hazard switch and raise suspension to max height. Might take some time until pressure build up.

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

If you already got LHM coming from the bleed nipple, then it does not need anymore bleeding from underneath of car. Next remove return hose from reservoir, connect pins in C901 connector and press hazard switch. When you get LHM coming, disconnect pins in C901 and press hazard switch. Finally, just press the hazard switch and raise suspension to max height. Might take some time until pressure build up.

 

Aha, so just keep the pump running, while the electrovalve is open, so fluid goes in return? ..

 

Will try, got two more litres of LHM today, so hopefully I can do some testing wednesday. Really looking forward to get this working now. Time to get the car into the spray booth to do last prep-work before primer.

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

Finally it seem to be working now

 

Had some leaks (might have still, will see if it has lowered down when I get back from easter holiday).

 

Was really hard to tighten the sphere enough to make that seal properly. Might it be a big deal not to change the seals/o-rings for new ones?

 

Anyway, next is to paint some new dampers as the two last ones wasn't too good, and make some temporary front suspension and an old steering-rack on to get it rolling

 

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

[imaS 0]

Good that you got suspension working. Sphere should be tightened by hand - just like oilfilter. Might be worth to change seals.

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

Ouch. i used a 50 cm arm on an oilfilter wrench yesterday. Think I'll get å new seal then!

 

 

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

Got loosened the sphere again, and re-tightenend by hand, think the leak maybe came from the top small pipe and not the sphere anyway.

 

Also the temporary suspension isgetting there. Just need to bring the front wishbones next time, and a few small parts to the strut top assy that's missing for one strut.

 

Then I can get it onto it's wheels again

 

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

Today I put the suspension on and put the car on it's 4 wheels

 

 

 

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

Today I painted some nice new brake calipers:

 

 

I also have started to remove some small spot rust on the outside of the shell.

 

Have now sanded the two rear panels and the roof, so it is more or less ready for sanding primer.

 

Also removed leftovers of the winscreen glue and have primed with 2k epoxy primer around the rear and front, in addition to some small other rust spots that I found on the roof.

 

 

 

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

Today I finally picked up my head from the enginebuilder.

 

It is not ported much at all, inlet ports are just smoothed a bit. Exhaust ports are reshaped in the radiis, and opened up a bit in general, 28mm diameter on the exhaust manifold flange.

 

New valve guides are also installed on the exhaust side.

 

Valves and seats are re-shaped, so the effective venturi-diameter is +2mm on both the inlet and exhaust valves. (seats are cut differently, thinner and further out on the valve/seat).

 

Sadly he already had fitted the valves and stuff when I came, so no pics of the seat areas themselves.

 

This head doesn't look as shiny as the 2.3 16v head I got before, but that was opened up quite a bit more and all orginal casting marks were removed. I don't believe that will make any difference though, as the valve-seat area is where most the magic is.

 

Edit: forgot to mention that the combistion chambers also are slightly re-shaped. Opening them ut a bit more to unschroud the valves. No reason not to do it when the bore is up to 87mm and head casting basicly can be used with a 83mm headgasket.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

Yesterday I got the rear beam wiring and mounting plate from Kevan, so that's great. (Thanks a lot )

 

 

Will get the plate sandblasted and painted before it will be mounted.

 

Other than that I'm also working on my 205 a bit, changing the orginal radiator for a BakerBM one instead, so that is also taking me some time lately (in addition to stuff to fix on the 407 before MOT), hence very little progress on the T16.

 

New radiator going into place on 205. Hopefully this will get the temps down a bit.