[car_restoration] 405 T16 Restoration

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

Fixed in place.

 

 

Even with the hose behind the foglight it is not a problem to fit the light

 

 

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

Now I've been grinding back som more rust and removing loose chassi protection stuff from the front of the sills both sides. The "glue" like stonechip has separated from the steel so is just a rust trap all over the place

 

Now I've sprayed it down with oil on both sides that now are drying.

 

 

Got hold of a idler pulley for a Peugeot Partner that luckily had the correct offset for the belt. Has ordered a turnbuclke and two rosejoints that I'll try to use to make a tightening mechanism on the alternator.

 

 

Also made a aluminium plate to block the small termostat outlet. I'll take the cooling-water to the turbo from this, and route the return water from the turbo to the inlet hose to the radiator. Hopefully that will work out ok.

 

 

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

Finally painted the inner arches at the front.

 

Now I'll let it dry a few days, then apply seam sealer and then one more layer of paint before I'll add thick stonechip.

 

 

 

 

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

Swapped the bling blong AN connections that came with the fuel surge tank for some more compact banjo connections.

 

 

Also recieved some more silicone hoses so I managed to partly finish off the heater maxtrix plumbing.

 

 

 

 

Also used a banjo connection for the water return from the turbo.

 

 

 

Still missing some connectors to finish off the water inlet to the turbo.

 

Think I need to make a aluminium plate and bolt to the bulkhead behind the exhaust manifold to try to keep the heat away a bit, and also to protect the water hose going back from matrix down to the water pump inlet.

 

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

Now the progress is up to date with the status on the car today. So from now I think the updates will come slower

 

Now I've applied some seam sealer (PU glue actually, really thick and strong).

Applied around the flange around the wheel-arch as I believe that is a bit prone to stone-chipping, or flaking paint when the plastic cover is mounted and dismounted

 

 

I also made a tightening mechanism for the auxilary belt. Turnbuckle.

 

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

Mounted the fuel surge tank today. After it was done I started thinking though, that it ain't the best position in case of a collision. So car might catch fire quite fast I guess.. but think it will be like this now anyways.

 

 

Also recieved the fuel pump today, I'll try to mount it like this somehow.

 

 

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

Then bracket is finished, added some rubber parts to it so it will have some flexibility and the aluminium won't crack in the welds

 

I will use 12mm ID hose for fuel supply at pump inlet, I hope this will be enough, orginal seem to be a bit more, 14mm maybe. Will change the pump inlet connection to a banjo style inlet too, just ordered some more parts

 

 

 

 

 

 

Still also space for changing light bulbs.

 

 

[estland1345402287 0]

Good work

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

Thanks.

 

I'm getting more and more desperate now, about what color to choose for the car.

At the moment I have no clue really.

 

Have been thinking about red, but as my old Mi16 was that it is a bit boring.

And most of the old peugeot colors are not that "nice" anymore I think.

[Guest davetibbs]

What about a Peugeot colour of the era that wasn't available on the 405?

 

Like 205 Miami blue?

[un numero d'or 38 3 Cars]

White is chique:)

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

Not too fan of white, it feels a bit useless to paint the car in whiter after a lot of hard prepwork

 

Miami blue is maybe a bit too strong.

 

I'm actually wondering about some more anonymous look, so a light shade of some nice color.

[rodionski 3 1 Cars]

Wow, the fuel pump and tank position is critically wrong

What you should really do is hide both of them in the trunk where I assume you will have your battery (isolated in a metal box) and ATL homologated fuel tank. That will allow for a compact and easily accessable fuel system. By the way, the trunk will have to be isolated from the cockpit by a metal firewall.

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

Yes I know.

 

I'll take a look under the boot floor after the subframe has been bolted in there. Maybe I can put it there instead.

Not a fan of putting it in the trunk, it's not like it is a racecar. Shall be a nice ride is the purpose.

 

I use the 205 for race

[rodionski 3 1 Cars]

Oh I see now. Putting it under the bonnet is a no go in any case, even if it is not a race car.

 

I know from experience - when a PAS high pressure hose developed a tiny crack in the metal part of junction to the PAS pump during a rally event (due to excessive engine movement in the bay because of stock engine and gearbox mounts), my car immediately caught fire as the PAS oil hit the exhaust manifold. It was a miracle that the driver was a professional licensed race driver and knew what to do - not to stop and not to go too fast - kept going until all oil has burnt away - that was quite a spectacle with a flame amount 7 feet long beside the car!

 

So my rule now is to have all fuel and oil hoses stainless steel braided and secured with AN7 screw-on fittings and never keep oil or fuel reservoirs under the bonnet (if at all possible).

[welshpug 1,621]

most rallycross cars have fuel tanks in the engine bay.

[Mr Teflon 1 1 Cars]

So much welding!

 

So much dedication - keep it up!

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

Thanks

 

I've taken out the engine today, so will start prepping engine bay and inside shell for paint soonish now.

That will be another milestone.

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

Painted the clutch slave cylinder bracket and the expansion tank bracket today.

 

 

 

Also added a thick layer of PU paint on the strut tower that I have changed.

When paint is dry I'll add some seam sealer so water won't get down there and create a rust trap.

 

 

 

Engine is obviously out by now

 

 

I've cleaned up the area behind the bulkhead also now, was lots of glue/asphalt remains after the original sound deadeing that was there.

 

Edited December 27, 2011 by B1ack_Mi16

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

Added seam-sealer/body glue to the strut top today. Will overpaint it when dry, probably next time I'm there.

 

 

Also added stonechip protection to the inner arches now.

At the front I used some really thick stuff, applied 1kg in each arch at the front.

 

At the rear I sprayed on some Mercasol Thick rust protection, but it's very thin compared to the front though. But at the rear I did apply thick glue on top of all bare plates, so it shouldn't really be a problem with stone chipping

 

 

 

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

Finally painted enginebay.

 

At least first layer. Color will come on later on

 

 

 

 

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

Output shaft bearings arrived today, managed to get two genuine Peugeot bearings from eBay for a total of 25 euros inc. shipping

 

 

Also recieved first batch of seals for gearbox/rear diff/transferbox.

 

4 x 45x62x10mm ones and 2 x 49x60x10mm ones.

 

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

I've also just recieved some VAG FSI coils, and got a Audi harness for christmas gift of a friend.

 

So trying to mount it on the T16 head, it seem to fit almost without any modifications at all. These coils are supposedly quite good, and doesn't need any ignition module, as that is built into the coils.

 

I just need to slightly grind some of the ribs just above where the coils sit in the cover, and things will fit.

 

 

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

I've spent the last few evenings cutting and shaping some aluminium plates so I will have some sort of heat-shield between manifold and bulkhead.

 

Just need to join the parts now, as I made it as 3 separate parts (didn't have any large enough plates around).

 

 

 

[JeffR 51]

You might consider getting the exhaust manifold & nearby piping thermally treated also.