[car_overhaul] Roadspeed Revival

[feb 47]

I was shocked to find out the expansion tank cost 8€!

 

On the other hand, a new MC costs here almost double of what it costs in UK!

 

I can't understand why these price variations, if anyone needs a new expansion tank give me a shout, lol!

 

It seems that I was quite lucky (or unlucky - a thorough clean will tell)

 

What came out of the sensor, years of muck

 

 

 

Edit: I think I might have destroyed it (in the sense I might have a leak now from the sensor after removing the sealant) as the brown stuff is not muck but some sort of sealant where the metal bit goes into the assembly to prevent it from leaking.

 

I have removed some but not all of the sealant but it is so worn and keeps coming out so I'd rather get a new sensor/assembly as I don't fancy this stuff clogging my radiator.

 

This may explain why the coolant and the expansion tank become brown after the years as this sealant disintegrates...

Edited May 17, 2012 by feb

[cybernck 400 1 Cars]

Where did you find it that cheap?! Any more available?

[Lowercase 56]

Next up the seats, as they were in the house getting in the way and the half-leather interior already in the car I'd provisionally sold and needed removing anyway.

 

The seats were a set of Recaro's removed from a Mitsubishi Evo 4 which he'd had previously in his old 205 and wanted another set for this one. They very comfortable and supportive too, so a far better choice for a road car than many bucket seats (especially those at the cheaper end of the market) although these Recaro's don't come cheap, especially when you factor in the required adapters to replace the existing subframes and make them fit 205 5dr (non lift/tilt) subframes

 

 

The new subframes were simple enough to fit, which is more than can be said for fitting the seats into the car - it's not a difficult job as such, but there's very little space to work to get the two front bolts through the subframes and into the floorpan. Evntually though I got them tightened down and the seats were in.

 

 

Don't look too out of place with the Phase 2 cloth rear seats that I'd picked up either (the Recaro's are black despite looking distinctly grey in the above picture!).

 

what subframes did you use? 205 ones or the origional evo frames. cheers - i have a set of these kicking about too so would like to put them to work.

[feb 47]

Where did you find it that cheap?! Any more available?

 

Nikica, I can't find the receipt now but I think I must have got it wrong.

 

8€ was for the brake fluid container.

 

what subframes did you use? 205 ones or the origional evo frames. cheers - i have a set of these kicking about too so would like to put them to work.

 

Recaro 205 specific subframes were used on top of the 205 subframes (with the tilting mechanism removed).

[Lowercase 56]

ah, do the seats sit extra high now? think ill have to whip up my own frames

[feb 47]

OK, I found the receipt, the expansion tank was 43€ with 10% discount.

 

The seating position is higher than normal but I am used to it.

 

It's a long time since I drove Anthony's "Jalopy" project that has standard seats and have forgotten how the original seating position is but Anthony may be able to shed more light on the differences.

 

A few more jobs done last Saturday, the coolant level sensor was replaced with a new one (no more 'low level coolant light' coming on now), and with the help of a collegue we managed to replace the servo and MC; the arctic temperatures (-17C) during last winter had caused the MC to leak some fluid into the servo.

 

It was only a small amount of fluid and ever since it warmed up to -5C or so it never leaked again but it was a good decision to replace it finally.

 

Thanks to Anthony for supplying the parts as it saved me quite a few quid (a new MC costs over 100€ here but only £40 or so in UK )

 

Only issue left now is to bleed the brakes properly as we have not been able to remove the nipples from the rear caliper inserts; not having imperial size spanners doesn't help...

 

I'll remove the whole insert, measure the thread and fit a 'normal' nipple for the time being to get me going.

 

Working on my own car (I hadn't done more than oil/spark plug/alternator and exhaust changes in the past in my cars), is more fun than I imagined but a lot more enjoyable with the guidance/help/company of someone.

Edited May 23, 2012 by feb

[Anthony 1,000]

The Recaro's with the correct subframes sit a little higher than the standard seat, but not too much - I still had more headroom in Feb's non-sunroof car than I do in my own factory-sunroof car to give you an idea, but 20mm or so lower would be ideal. As Feb mentioned above, you use the 5dr subframe (or 3dr one with the tilt section removed) which helps to bring the seat down somewhat. The Recaro's lean back a little more, and are a fair bit more supportive than the standard 205 seats.

 

Feb - Get a picture for someone to verify, but I'm 90% sure that the rear calipers were modified to take Wilwood type inserts and bleed nipples, thus getting around the dissimilar metal corrosion issue between the steel nipple and alloy body that exists normally. Ironically, the reason I left them fitted was because they shouldn't have given you any problems...

[Alan_M 66 1 Cars]

Feb,

 

I have the same nips on my 4 pots, and you can get the brake spanner in Halfords (Obviously an issue, whats the equivalent in Merkel-land?). It's a Laser item. 1/4" rings a bell, but I can double check for you tomorrow if you like.

 

The threaded insert is M10x1.

Edited May 23, 2012 by Alan_M

[feb 47]

Feb,

 

I have the same nips on my 4 pots, and you can get the brake spanner in Halfords (Obviously an issue, whats the equivalent in Merkel-land?). It's a Laser item. 1/4" rings a bell, but I can double check for you tomorrow if you like.

 

The threaded insert is M10x1.

 

Hi Alan et al,

 

This is the insert that is fitted (7 threads in a length of 7mm), the insert is 10mm in diameter and has a 13mm head and the nipple has a 6.45mm head.

 

I have no idea what the thread of the nipple might be so I think I'd better get a standard nipple to replace the insert or?

 

 

 

Edit: the internal diameter of the insert where the nipple fits is 3mm.

 

Let me know if you need any more measurements, otherwise I will fit it back to the car (using a plug now).

 

Cheers!

Edited May 26, 2012 by feb

[feb 47]

Edit: the head if the insert is 11mm not 13mm!

[Alan_M 66 1 Cars]

You'll need M10x1 nipples then, if you want to replace it all.

 

The thread of the Wilwood nipple will no doubt be imperial, being yank. 1/8" 27tpi (a shade over 3mm).

 

New inserts & nipples are £8 for 4 from Rally Design. 1/4" brake spanner was £5 I think.

[feb 47]

Are standard Peugeot 205 rear caliper nipples M10x1?

 

I tried looking in http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=nipples&sort=3a&&page=1&osCsid=9tp1ovimfpej2srl9ioo2vee57 but I can't understand what nipples I need and where to get M10x1 inserts that will fit the 1/8" 27tpi you mention

 

Thanks again!

[Alan_M 66 1 Cars]

Nope, they're M7x1 AFAIK.

 

The black nipple thread is 1/8" 27tpi.

 

Why do you want to go back to 'normal' nipples? Stick the insert back in, and get the 1/4" brake spanner for the nipple. The nipples the only bit you need to move for bleeding.

 

Otherwise, Anthony must've had them drilled out (snapped nipples maybe?) to M10x1. Be careful here, because if the standard nipple seat in the caliper has been drilled too, then you've no chance of a 'normal' nipple sealing. I tried drilling some out on a pillar drill and even then it was a twat to do. You'll have to stick with the insert/nipple combo.

[Anthony 1,000]

I bought them already like that, but yes, they've been modified to take the Wilwood style insert and nipple.

 

As Alan says, they're not standard Peugeot size and thus you can't replace them with a new Peugeot item.

 

I'm not sure why you're having such problems, as they've always just undone fine for me and they've been fitted for a few years. Get the correct size 1/4" spanner or 6-side socket and crack them off and they should undo fine

[feb 47]

Today, my collegue and me got round to finishing the remaining of the jobs that were left to do from two weeks ago.

 

Anthony, indeed with the right tool (1/4" socket), the nipple came undone and the brakes were bled properly with vacuum suction. I can lock the wheels again now

 

Next on the list was to replace the oil cooler as it had started to leak between the sandwich plates when the oil got hot.

 

When I noticed this and as a quick fix I removed the sandwich plate and disconnected the oil cooler.

 

To remove the oil cooler you need to remove the front valence (or bumper) and since I was hoping in refitting the new unit soon I left the car without the valence.

 

The fact that the oil cooler wasn't necessary in winter, the cold and wet days and my lazyness (mostly the latter) meant months passed by with the 205 being valence-less and looking sorry for herself.

 

I once got stopped for an inspection by the gestapo and was asked what's happened to it, the reply from the policewoman was: "watch out so that no other pieces fall from your car" !

 

I wasn't a happy bunny from her statement to say the least

 

A new Mocal unit is back on and the valence is in place now.

 

I had forgotten how beautiful a 205 looks and I am glad to get back into it everytime I see it now!

 

 

The only issue we had was that I had started undoing the driving lights' brackets to fit the new units Anthony sent me and was unable to undo them all the way due to them being seized.

 

A few days spraying with WD40 didn't do much and when trying to tighten it back today (as I realised it might be easier to replace the lens and cover instead of unscrewing the unit from its bracket) it broke.

 

The angle grinder came to rescue and the driving lights were removed completely.

 

I must say I never liked Gti's with no driving lights but in the flesh and being white it looks good (for my liking anyway).

 

I am after some Rallye "grills/blanks" if someone has got some or knows the part number.

 

Unfortunately, the difficulty in registering the car here means it will most probably be for sale by the end of summer. We'll see

Edited June 2, 2012 by feb

[feb 47]

Not a lot done to the car recently but some small jobs to tidy up the interior and fix some bits and bobs that I don't have the skills or time to do.

Anthony and Baz kindly checked the car over earlier last year when they came to Germany for the Oktoberfest.

Ever since I replaced the metal cap of the expansion tank with a plastic one I had to keep refilling the expansion tank approximately once a week.

I got paranoid (as I am usually with cars) and with the starting problem due to the Emerald (that's another story) I was worried my HG had gone.

The car wasn't smoking and drove fine but when I took it for a compression test to a local garage the compression test results were down according to my understanding and I started to worry again.

Luckily when Anthony and Baz compression tested the car a month later when they visited me they confirmed everything was OK.

Anthony had already explained to me before coming over that the compression test results of the turkish garage did not make sense but until he compression tested it himself I was still anxious.

The above example is one of the many bad experiences of garages I have in Germany but don't get me started on this topic.

I am glad I didn't sell the car as I had intended to!

Anthony wasted no time and even after a 9-hour journey swapped my Recaros and cloth seats over for the original phase 1 half leather seats of the car and fixed my squeeky alternator belt while Baz and me went to buy some dinner.

The only downside to this is that there is no squeeky noise on startup anymore to annoy my racist and paranoid ex-landlady!

The car drove back to UK last month without major issues (apart from the intermittent - or almost permanent lately non-starting problem that I have been having for months).

It was taken to Miles for a service and MOT and the following work to be done:

- troubleshoot non-starting issue (turned out to be the starter motor's relay from what I understood)

- relocate wideband gauge into the glovebox and rewire it so that it switches ON/OFF automatically with the ignition (I have been using a home made cigarette lighter adaptor for months which not only looked ugly but made the interior cluttered with cables)

- replace wishbones with a new set of Motaquip ones that I managed to source which use the correct OEM Kleiber (sp?) bushes ; unfortunately Motaquip has stopped using these bushes a while back so I was lucky to find a new set of old stock.

- replace coolant

- oil & filter change

The interior now looks totally standard as it is meant to be and the car drives like a go kart!

The combination of the new wishbones (the bushes of the old ones were split) and toe out that Miles gave during the alignment has made the car such a joy to drive.

It loves roundabouts and the turn-in is awesome!

Now everything in the suspension is new

A great thanks to all 3 people above for helping to keep me on the road!

Edited January 14, 2013 by feb

[Paul_13 212 1 Cars]

As some of you are aware I am now the owner of this car.

 

The head gasket seemed like it was blown to smithereens. Really struggling to start leaving Febs.

We got it back after just getting it started.

 

The header tank had no coolant in when we got it back and you could smell hydrocarbons strongly in the tank.

 

A quick compression test later revealed

200 195 150 200

Seems as though cylinder 2 has a problem.

But strangely after tipping a teaspoon of oil down the bore the compression shot up to 200 psi. So piston ring looks suspect and possibly the head gasket too.

 

The spark plug was also cracked on a cylinder which probably didn't help matters

 

Any how the engine was coming out

 

 

My rear beam off the silver one was swapped over and raised roughly 10mm

 

 

We took the engine out and found a bit of tin worm it's gone along the seam between the bulkhead and floor pan

 

 

Edited February 25, 2013 by Paul_13

[Paul_13 212 1 Cars]

A bit of rust in the usual place which luckily is only surface

 

 

And the other usual place but this bit is shot

 

 

The rotten bit of metal

 

 

 

 

The rotten areas cut out

 

 

I have made the plates for these ready for welding tomorrow

The one on the seam is a bit tricky

[Paul_13 212 1 Cars]

Test fitted the 6 engine and only minimal work is needed to get it to fit. Going to elongate the holes on the pedal box and shift it up and away from the cambelt cover.

 

[dcc 855]

Whats plans for the dead lump paul? I might know a boy who'd have it

[feb 47]

And the other usual place but this bit is shot



The rotten bit of metal






The rotten areas cut out



I have made the plates for these ready for welding tomorrow
The one on the seam is a bit tricky

 

Which part of the car are these areas from Paul?

 

Progressis quick I see!

Edited February 25, 2013 by feb

[Anthony 1,000]

Whats plans for the dead lump paul? I might know a boy who'd have it

It'll be up for sale in due course more than likely, although in what form I haven't decided. Want to pull the head off first and see what the state of play is and why the headgasket failed prematurely, although I have my suspicions that it's related to being run low on coolant when Feb had the wrong header tank cap fitted for a long time.

[Paul_13 212 1 Cars]

The first pic you've quoted is the circle plate under the drivers seat, I forgot to add there's another hole I need to patch up.

 

The bit with the cut out rectangular and circular holes is on the bulkhead near the exhaust tunnel

 

I've got a feeling this was caused by you not refitting the steering UJ grommet. It's caused the bulkhead insulation to get soaked by water and caused the metalwork to rot

[feb 47]

Bloody hell!

 

Sounds probable, although as far as I remember the steering UJ grommet came out late last summer (no amount of swearing would help getting it back in so I fitted it as well as I could) and the car has only been driven a couple of times this winter; unless it was leaking previously?

 

Keep up the good work guys, it seems like if it stayed in my hands it would end up rotting on the driveway!

Edited February 25, 2013 by feb

[Anthony 1,000]

Problem is that any water that gets past the steering grommit just ends up getting trapped in the sound deadening, which soaks it up like a sponge and keeps the metal wet for weeks or months afterwards. No doubt that the water had been coming in there, as the sound deadening was all largely dry and in good condition, except for around and below the steering gaitor where it was soaked.

 

Ironically though, it was the fact that you'd clearly been struggling to refit the gaitor and had ended up bending and distorting the hole in the process that led us to find the rust - whilst straightening out that Paul spotted a tiny visible bubble that probably would have been missed otherwise, but once it was poked with a screwdriver, became a much larger hole and pitted metal surrounding it. Certainly it had looked fine when I'd originally fitted the engine 18 months or so back, although it's a pretty poor design really, as (on this car atleast) there's no seam sealer preventing water ingress between the two seams on the bulkhead, allowing moisture to get in and rust from the inside out.

 

That rust isn't particularly major and should all be properly sorted tomorrow, and the rest of the shell is pretty good for the most part and solid in the other usual places